Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

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DanBerger
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Joined: May 3rd, 2004, 3:29 pm
Boat Make/Model: SC 15 w/ spin!, SC 19
Location: Norfolk, VA

Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by DanBerger »

I finally got the sail up, but it was gusty, so I couldn't get great pics of the sail shape. I did get some pics of my furler set up
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DanBerger
Professional
Posts: 280
Joined: May 3rd, 2004, 3:29 pm
Boat Make/Model: SC 15 w/ spin!, SC 19
Location: Norfolk, VA

Re: Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by DanBerger »

This is how I set up the pole and furling drum. I have the self tacking jib kit with the flat traveler across the front of the beam, so I had to go under the beam and through a hole in the tramp. I got a Selden brand double fairlead that opens up so you can route the furling lines through it. That is mounted under the front beam.

The top down furler lets the tack of the sail spin freely or, lets it not furl with the sail. Instead, it starts furling at the top. I am using the shackle to attach the sail to the furler drum.
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DanBerger
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Re: Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by DanBerger »

Now, for the cool part. I needed to pass the endless furling line though the trampoline and to a turning block near the rear beam. I wanted to keep tension on the line and I wanted to anchor it so it didn't flop all over the place. I added a grommet to the rear lacing srtip to keep everything lined up.

One thing I wanted for the hole was to have a cleat so I could cleat off the sail when furled. I cut out a 4"x5" hole in the tramp and had a boat top place reinforce the area around the hole. I was worried that the line would burn the tramp and I needed some backing for that cleat, so I built a plastic piece.

I went to Bed, Bath and Beyond (worst part of the whole project) and picked up some plastic cutting boards. They only had boards that were about 1/3" thick so I got those. I think I should go thicker next time, I already broke one of the cut out pieces.

So, we have a machine shop here in Norfolk that you join like a gym. They have all sorts of tools and machining products, you can go wild in there. I won a 13 day membership, so I got to spend some time on their CNC machine (best part of the whole project).

I cut the boards with the CNC program and had it drill the holes. I had to then counter sink the holes and route the edges. I figured routing them would give the rope a better, smoother surface. I wanted to bury the nuts on the bottom side, but the board was too thin and I ended up cutting too much out. This is my first pass at this project, so I can always go back in and remake the pieces with larger cutting boards.

I mounted the cleat on the bottom on the left side. That way, I can pull it to the left and cleat it when furled and just push the line down out of the cleat to launch the sail. It worked pretty well in the back yard..
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DanBerger
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Posts: 280
Joined: May 3rd, 2004, 3:29 pm
Boat Make/Model: SC 15 w/ spin!, SC 19
Location: Norfolk, VA

Re: Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by DanBerger »

Turning and control blocks:

I think I need to rethink the turn blocks. I have them on a carabiner attached to the small shackle that attached the shroud extender line to the sidestay tang. I haven't had Tom's blessing on this yet. I also think I need to lengthen the string to move the block closer to the front beam.

I had some short lengths of really large line laying around, so I took the cover off and made a cover for the smaller lines on the blocks to the carabiners. I think I'll put some of that sticky velcro tape on the blocks so they won't bang on the hulls. I'm not going to velcro them to the hulls, just use the velcro as a pad on the blocks.
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havliii
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Boat Make/Model: SuperCat 19, Modded SC20
Location: Fredericksburg Virginia

Re: Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by havliii »

WOW! Dan, you related to a man named MacGyver? Post some video ASAP!!!
Mac M
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Re: Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by Mac M »

That plastic piece you built is sweet!
DanBerger
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Boat Make/Model: SC 15 w/ spin!, SC 19
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Re: Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by DanBerger »

Nah, Macguyver would have set up the boat with a paperclip, some gum and some tin foil.

I got everything for the system from Tom except the furler and the blocks--and the plastic piece, of course.

I had to build the pole, too. It was an old Mystere 5.5 pole that I got off of a friend's Prindle 19MX. It was painted, not annodized, so I had to treat it. I didn't want to pay the shipping for a 12.5' pole, but in retrospect, I wish I had.

So, I bought a gallon of Alumiprep and a gallon of Alodine solution.

Pole prep:
I chemically stripped then sanded the pole to get the old paint off. I ran a 2" wire wheel on the inside that had an 8' piece of PEX melted to the shank. I clamped that in my drill and 'honed' the inside of the pole to clean off any corrrosion and dirt on the inside. I had to beat the wire wheel with a hammer to get it to fit inside the pole, too. When I pulled the wheel and Pex pipe out to get to the closer end, the PEX made a HUGE spinning arc like a jump rope, so I used a 6 foot 4" section of PVC pipe as a sleeve. That ended up working really well and I have all my fingers and eyes intact to prove it.

Alumiprep and Alodine:
Alumiprep is a solution that cleans or etches the surface of non-annodized aluminim. It really cleans the surface and gets it ready for paint. It is an acid solution that bubbles when it is working. The correct mixture of 1 gal Alumiprep to water makes about 4.5 gallons. The Aluminum comes out super shiney when soaked in this stuff.

Alodine is a Chromate conversion that chemically treats the aluminum for extra corrosion protection and acts like a primer. The correct mixture of Alodine to water makes about 4.5 gallons, too. This chemical turns the aluminum a golden/brownish color. It is also sold in a dry state that you mix with water, so I'm not worried about the water evaporating in my solution, it would only need to be re-hydrated. On smaller parts, most people brush it on full strength.

A lot of model car and plane (engine) builders and people working on real planes use these chemicals for machined aluminum parts.

Building the tank:
I wanted to emerse the pole in the Alumiprep and Alodine to get the inside and outside surfaces, so I decided to build a tank. I bought 2 8 foot sections of 4" PVC, a connector and some end caps. I had some old school drain plugs that have a rubber seal and a lever to close. I cut the PVC to be about an inch longer than the pole.

So, I drilled two holes in the 'tank' at each end, one for filling and the other for draining. I put the pole in the tube, closed the drain plug and filled it with alumiprep. It took about 10 minutes to soak and I shook it a few times to make sure I had penetration. I then turned the tube over and drained the alumiprep into a 5 gal bucket. It is still 'active' so I need some other aluminum stuff to treat.

**note: it is IMPOSSIBLE to find a lid for a 5 gal bucket when you need one!! I went to three hardware stores and they were all sold out!! It must have been a conspiracy!!!

I had to hose off the pole and tank with water for a few minutes to clean it, then it went right back into the tank.

The Alodine process was exactly the same. It also can be re-used.

So, I had pre-fitted all the components for the pole and it was just a matter of installing everything and painting the pole. I used semigloss white Rustoleum. I installed the pole on the boat and used my tool bag to weigh down the end to adjust the prebend. Things you have to do solo. for the final touch, I put non-skid tape on the pole where I would walk on it--seems like I'm always walking on my current compression pole. I added a strip along the side where the furling line runs so it won't rub the paint away while furling.

After all that and $125 worth of chemicals, I kinda wish I would have found an annodized pole... But, it shure is purty.
Last edited by DanBerger on April 3rd, 2015, 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
havliii
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Joined: March 27th, 2011, 8:12 pm
Boat Make/Model: SuperCat 19, Modded SC20
Location: Fredericksburg Virginia

Re: Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by havliii »

WOW! again. When do you splash her?
DanBerger
Professional
Posts: 280
Joined: May 3rd, 2004, 3:29 pm
Boat Make/Model: SC 15 w/ spin!, SC 19
Location: Norfolk, VA

Re: Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by DanBerger »

Thanks, I won't get the boat in the water until sometime in May. I don't think I'll fly the kite until the RRR and I won't race with it until Duck Cup and our Labor Day event.

One thing to add--I had to plan the system so that it could be removed and set up quickly. We get to leave our boats on the beach with the mast up, so I didn't want to leave the furling system on the boat. The furler was like $1100 and then all the other lines and blocks really added up. too. I can leave the pole on the boat because it will be bow-first into the dunes, so I'm not worried about that.

Also, I sail solo, so I needed everything to be easy to get to. Running the furling line down the middle of the tramp did just that and it didn't take up much room on the tramp.

Mac needs to post some pics of his system. He ran his furling lines to the beam on the hull of his 20. I thought about that, but it wouldn't have worked well for solo control.
Kevin Keller
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Location: Honolulu

Re: Supercat 15 Top Down Furling set up

Post by Kevin Keller »

Nice work!
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