Aquarius Sail Owners

Dan, - If you use thickened resin you can "spread" it on the inside of opening using a putty knife or tongue depressor. - Regarding glass mat, don't use it. Get woven cloth it is 100x better then glass mat. - The core will make the repair lighter and will mimic the flex characteristics of ...

Sorry for the late reply. - For starters I would agree that you want to grind out the fractured core. It is most likely fractured all the way through to the inner skin, however if it isn't fractured all the way through then you could stop as soon as the fractured material is removed. For reference t...

Dan, You are right that repairing a batten that breaks near the tip is pretty much futile..... The bend characteristics of the battens are essentially unchanged from the original white ones. The materials and the process to make them has been improved over the years resulting in a batten that is muc...

Yep, those are it.

The change to the off-center hole was made in 1985. There should also be an arrow and part number on the top (flat) side of the newer ones.

Dan,

The original ones were centered and I think they may have been a little narrower too...

Dan, There are two different length tubular battens. On the larger boats (19+) it is necessary to splice some of the longer battens. This is done by sleeving a short segment of batten into the leech end of a full length batten. The overlap on the splice is only a few inches (4-6") and because i...

Dan, The part you are talking about is called a Moon Washer. The hole is supposed to be off center, with the wide portion towards the centerline of the hull. This is important on the outboard washer because it allows for the end cap to be installed. It is less important on the inboard washer, but it...

Originally the 17 came with a wire halyard that was secured in a clip at the bottom of the mast, inside the sail track. The hook at the top didn't come into play until around 1985. There is a conversion kit available to upgrade to the hook, give Tom a call at 651-462-SAIL and he can get you what you...

First off a suggestion for any future fiberglass repairs: Composites don't like sharp corners, in the future a round hole or a square/rectangular hole with generous round corners would be much stronger and easier to repair. Regardless at this point I am not sure I would change anything other then tr...

Mike, Regarding the serial number and the year of your boat. - FMSB indicates it was a built by Boston Whaler. - 188 indicates it was the 188 "boat" shipped, hence the sail number also being 188. - M81L is the model year, so the boat is a 1981. - 17P & 17S identify the port and startbo...

Tom just pointed out to me this morning that he has also discontinued using the 7x19 wire on the pigtails. He now uses 5/32" 1x19 on the pigtail. All of the standing rigging should be 1x19, the only place 7x19 should be used is for the jib halyard wire. The main issue with the 7x19 on the fores...

I don't think it would require immediate replacement, but I would certainly check it over carefully. 7x19 seems to be prone to "fish hooks" in random places that you might not normally see a wire fail.

The forestay should be 1/8" 1x19 SS wire. The pigtail (short wire from halyard sheave to mast hounds) would most likely be 7x19. When tensioning the jib downhaul you typically put a slight amount of slack in the forestay. Maybe pull the down haul another 1" after the forestay starts to bec...

That appears to be correct.

Surprisingly I don't seem to have a good photo showing how to run the lines in a the rudder head. I will keep digging around, but in the mean time take a look at this post from several years ago, it might be helpful.

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