Good Morning,
This winter I have been attempting to straighten my mast, (SC20TR with the “tri-spreader” configuration).
Quick History: The previous owner was attempting to compensate for the bend with loading the wires on one side. This condition did not allow the mast to “flop-over” on Port.
I currently have all wires loosened and the mast cradled in a position to correct the bend.
A quick question(s) on diamond wire tensions and pre-bend for my mast:
1) Does this mast lend itself “happily” to pre-bend?
a. I have two sets of main sails:
i. One original cut pin head
ii. And one high aspect square top Smyth SC22 main
2) What wire tension specifications should I be shooting for?
3) Am I missing important steps in my attempt here?
In Conclusion: Should I be looking to upgrade my stick, or should this stick still have some life at this age?
Help Please…..
Bobby
SC20TR mast straighten attempt
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Bobby Marshall
- Novice
- Posts: 1
- Joined: February 12th, 2004, 7:23 am
- Location: Annapolis, Maryland
SC20TR mast straighten attempt
Bobby Marshall
SC20TR
Cougar Mk III
H14, P18
SC20TR
Cougar Mk III
H14, P18
SC 22 mast
I am not sure about the questions you asked ....but if you feel like upgrading to a SC 22 mast I have a spare alum mast completely rigged and tuned , ready to go and about 2 years old. Let me know if you have any interest.
-
Bill Roberts
- Expert
- Posts: 515
- Joined: November 17th, 2003, 9:13 pm
- Location: Stuart, Florida
Response to Bobby Marshall
Hi Bobby,
The first thing for you to do is decide what is your goal with the boat. Do you just want to get it sailing or do you want to make it the best it can be with factory, class legal, upgrades.
To straighten the mast, disconnect all diamond wires. Then apply pressure at the bend point gradually increasing the deflection and measuring in between straightening efforts. Use a wide pad at the point pressure is applied, fulcrum point, so you do not put a dent in the mast.
Prebend: The spreaders on the old three spreader system were not swept back so it is not possible to induce prebend. The new spreader system with inner and outer diamonds and several inches of sweepback built into the spreader bracket will induce prebend. The prebend requires a mainsail luff curve cut for it. You can install the new spreader system on an old mast. You will have a few holes to plug but that is no problem, epoxy.
To go all the way with upgrades is putting the ARC22 rig on an old SC20.
The self tacking jib is a big improvement and a go fast over the old high footed jib. The spinaker is a go for it or leave it off thing.
Get parts and prices from Tom Haberman at Aquarius-Sail.com.
Bill
The first thing for you to do is decide what is your goal with the boat. Do you just want to get it sailing or do you want to make it the best it can be with factory, class legal, upgrades.
To straighten the mast, disconnect all diamond wires. Then apply pressure at the bend point gradually increasing the deflection and measuring in between straightening efforts. Use a wide pad at the point pressure is applied, fulcrum point, so you do not put a dent in the mast.
Prebend: The spreaders on the old three spreader system were not swept back so it is not possible to induce prebend. The new spreader system with inner and outer diamonds and several inches of sweepback built into the spreader bracket will induce prebend. The prebend requires a mainsail luff curve cut for it. You can install the new spreader system on an old mast. You will have a few holes to plug but that is no problem, epoxy.
To go all the way with upgrades is putting the ARC22 rig on an old SC20.
The self tacking jib is a big improvement and a go fast over the old high footed jib. The spinaker is a go for it or leave it off thing.
Get parts and prices from Tom Haberman at Aquarius-Sail.com.
Bill