SC19 Rework

Technical discussion of ARC products
SC15Av8or
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Boat Make/Model: SC15 / SC19
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SC19 Rework

Post by SC15Av8or »

Ok folks my SC19 (second one from the left in the below photo) made it through the first season of us (RnBCYC)sailing it like they were meant to be sailed (hard and fast). Now that winter is upon us it is time to attempt proper repairs on jobs that were not done quite right. That said the major one is a proper bottom job and chase down the leak in the starboard hull. So I will be posting some pictures and looking for any and all advice from those of you out there that have already undertaken these sorts of winter projects. I would also like to paint the hulls to make the boat as cherry as possible. I will mention that I did not sail on any of the old standing rigging. That was all replaced from Aquarius as soon as I got the boat. I think I placed the order with Tom on the drive home from picking it up even. The running rigging for the most part was all usable. Attached is a link to a youtube clip I put out there. It is of a day we sailed in the same location as the picture is taken.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xliSzvNti0
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Last edited by SC15Av8or on September 21st, 2015, 11:20 am, edited 10 times in total.
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bogie52
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Joined: June 14th, 2010, 6:39 pm
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by bogie52 »

Having owned several SC 19s I feel I can make suggestions from experience.
1. The leak is most likely coming from the daggerboard tunnel to hull joint. Stress cracks visible around the db slot on the top are also common. Both are caused by overall hull flexing in the old Boston Whaler boats. Tom fixed the issue in later hulls by adding bulkheads which limit the flexing.
2. If you sand off the non skid behind and in front of the db slot you will see large oval patches bonded in. These are covering the access ports used to tape the db tunnels in when the hulls were built. Dig or cut these covers out. Note, they slightly go under the tramp tracks so remove the tracks first.
3. I have added a bulk head behind the db tunnel working thru these openings. Since a bulkhead will be wider than the oval port is long you have an issue to contend with,either elongate the oval port (as I did) or make a 2 part bulk head and join it once in the hull. while inside grind and retape all around the tunnel, top and bottom.This fix completely ended leakage and stress cracks in a pair of 1984 hulls I did about 11 years ago. They are still in use. When you close the ports and glass over,perfect fairing isn't really a concern since texture paint covers it.
4. The tunnel itself has a vertical seam, inspect it and possibly retape over it also while inside.
5. The bulkhead should be made of glassed over foam or well covered plywood. Leave space at the bottom for breathing and drainage.
6. Anticipate rethreading with Helicoils the beam bolt threads in the hulls. Just do all 8 on general principle.
7. When removing the bridle tangs for painting, don't take out all the screws counting on the backup plate inside to be securely bonded. A friend did this on a Whaler boat and the backing plate fell in! Before the last screw is out, twist the tang and reinstall the other 2 screws for security.
8. After painting be sure to clear or re drill the breather holes by the upper rudder gudgeons!! Do not forget!
9. If you still have the old cable traveler consider upgrading to the later slotted beam with Harken traveler. First it works! and second the beam and track act as a dam to help keep the mainsheet on the deck-very helpful. I have a spare one for sale, BTW.
10. If you can rationalize the cost, upgrade to the 8'6" beams, but you will also need a new tramp, bridle wires, side shrouds and tiller crossbar sleeve. Six more inches beam does makes a noticeable difference.
SC15Av8or
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

bogie52.....

Wow great info and tips. I got lucky and no backing plates fell in. I did discover a lower gudgeon bolt was replaced with the incorrect oversized nut and bolt. The bolt dropped in and I will have to open her up for a proper fix. Everything else that is through bolted has had the screw put back in for the reason you mention. I have an '85 so got the track traveler. Not going to the wider beam either for cost and trailer reworks. Why did you helix the beam bolts?? Mine all came out just fine.

I have removed a halfass repair job on the bottom of the starboard hull to find the exact condition you mentioned. I was hoping to avoid major surgery but it is looking like that will be the best and real proper way to go since I already have her down. What kind of experience do you have with this stuff when you did it?? I'm fairly green to it and have yet to lay tape.
Last edited by SC15Av8or on July 4th, 2013, 12:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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SC15Av8or
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Joined: December 24th, 2010, 10:00 am
Boat Make/Model: SC15 / SC19
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

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Last edited by SC15Av8or on July 4th, 2013, 12:09 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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SuperCat 15/19Av8or
SC15Av8or
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

To remove the stripes and not gouge any of the gel-coat I used a stripper call Roxxy, not cheap but she liked how big my mast was. She called it a big pole....really??? Had to keep telling her, no that's a mast honey !!! Just seeing if you are reading....it was citrus strip (smells like oranges) from Wal-Mart. Brush it on thick, order a pizza drink 3 beers, eat pizza and drink 3 more beers. The stripes should be all bubbly, not due to the beer. Stripes should wipe off into empty pizza box. Wipe left over glue off with low odor mineral spirits or moon shine. Finish rest of the case of beer cause you are done for the day and enjoy your hard day’s work.
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Last edited by SC15Av8or on July 4th, 2013, 12:12 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Lifes 2 short for cheap GROG
SuperCat 15/19Av8or
SC15Av8or
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

After an inspection by the Commodore to verify condition of these hulls a plan of attack is now in place and progress will continue. Both hulls have been now sanded down completely with a Black and Decker finishing sander and 60-80 grit paper from Wal-Mart for $25. The seam is removed and all the non-skid removed using a stripping wheel in a drill. All the other bondo boogers faired out and are ready for a good fairing in. The Starboard hull has one fairing round and is ready for the next. Looks as though there will be some light glass work to do. Just have to re-tab both of the dagger board trunks top and bottoms one small delam along the port tramp rail and the gash on the starboard hull. I will be using the West System for all this and the fairing in the seams.
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Last edited by SC15Av8or on July 4th, 2013, 12:14 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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SuperCat 15/19Av8or
SC15Av8or
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

Well after knee surgery it is back to the grind. I have finished the second round of fairing and worked the starboard bottom dagger board trunk down to a smooth tab able surface. Cleaning up the last bottom job looks like it was tabbed with glass mat not cloth. We are using the long board, with 50 grit sand paper, to take down the grind plate from the last bottom job. Not removing it just shaping it for easier fairing. I have made different cradles for the painting out of 2x4's and 4 inch PVC. I'll get to the top of the dagger board trunk on the starboard hull and post some pictures. I'm still researching painting options. It's looking like a roll and tip job. Lots of good information on Jamestown distributers web site for this. It appears as though the dark blue hull logos are no longer available so I will have to find someone to recreate these or go without. Does anyone out there know of someone doing vinyl decals that can cut some new ones???
Last edited by SC15Av8or on July 4th, 2013, 12:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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SuperCat 15/19Av8or
SC15Av8or
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

Ok here are the current photos. All of these are of the starboard hull bottom except the first picture. The port hull was done correct and I won’t have much work to do on that one other than fairing out a few trailer bumps and gel coat gouges. Along with the tramp rail delam spot and some reglassing of that area for strength.
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Last edited by SC15Av8or on February 2nd, 2012, 2:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Kevin Keller
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by Kevin Keller »

Brings back memories!
SC15Av8or
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

Kevin...Yeah I bet and I am using all yours as a guide. Yours came out looking pretty good. Not going to go into mine as deep as you did though. I still have a huge learning curve to get through when it comes to laying glass out. Stays tuned though and PLEASE feel free to drop any hints or advice here.
Last edited by SC15Av8or on July 4th, 2013, 12:16 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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TopSpin80
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by TopSpin80 »

I'm doing the same thing to mine right now and I think I lost a backing plate into the hull. I ordered a milwaukee inspection camera to send in there and see what is rolling around. I'll probably end up having to cut a hole and I have been being really careful with it and taking one bolt out at a time, then over the weekend I wasn't thinking an pulled them out while sanding.

I have a vinyl cutter and am cutting stencils for the paintwork on mine, I'll start another thread of as mine goes along, I have some questions about some pretty thick "bondo" style fairing filler that was used to fair in the deck form the factory

Ernie
SC15Av8or
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

Well as the story goes for any of you out there that have under taken a project such as this. STILL GRINDING!!! The good news is I am done with the taking down part. I have exposed what glass needed to be and seen how bad the previous job was done. Removed most of it like should have been done. The last bottom job goobered up the dagger board openings by about 1/4 of an inch. So the boards would bind and not slide. Well that’s all gone and you can see the difference. I am to the point now where all the filling is done minus where I am going to re-tab and fair that correct. Should have most of it all reshaped, sanded and faired tomorrow. Time to order paint.
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Last edited by SC15Av8or on July 4th, 2013, 12:19 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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SC15Av8or
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

So here are the pictures of the filling I got finished as well. I will try to sand and fair out these tomorrow and post those pictures here as well. Only re-glassing/tabbing the bottoms left after that.
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Last edited by SC15Av8or on July 4th, 2013, 12:20 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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SuperCat 15/19Av8or
SC15Av8or
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Joined: December 24th, 2010, 10:00 am
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

So where does the project stand as of today (2/2/12). Well both of the hulls have been sanded with 220 grit and all the heavy stuff has now been taken down. Both dagger board trunks upper and lower have been reshaped and just need tabbing in with new glass. It was nice to see that no work was needed on the top of the starboard hull dagger board. However the port one was a classic over work and it took some grinding. After the glass work is done and cleaned up we'll make sure there are no leaks and start the painting. The seam has been smooth out and faired in on both hulls now upper and lower and the bottom of the port hull was lightened up, filled and faired as good as possible.
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SuperCat 15/19Av8or
SC15Av8or
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Re: SC19 Bottom job

Post by SC15Av8or »

For those of you really paying close attention here. This is an example of what we were working against going into this project. Also a good example of a bad job with bondo and a good job. Hopefully everyone remembers the infamous BONDO Boooooger!!!! Well here it is with it s very own ambush make over!!
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And now here you can see how with just a bit of time and elbow grease how we have managed to clean up the ewe nasty blemish. With a fresh layering of West Systems Ultra light filler it now appears to just vanish with no lines what sooo ever. Note the dramatic slimming down and streamlining that come with just a little sand paper. A good coat of paint and you won't be able to tell that nasty lil booboo is even there. I’ll post that picture as it occurs but stay tuned for it is sure to be FAAABULOUS!!!
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Last edited by SC15Av8or on July 4th, 2013, 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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