sc20 spin set up
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davefarmer
- Hot Shot
- Posts: 36
- Joined: March 31st, 2004, 8:24 pm
- Location: Spokane, WA
sc20 spin set up
Just bought a 20 std rig, would like to add a spin to it, could use advice. Pole length? Tip height? Recommendations on kite size (luff length, sq ft)? Preferred snuffers? How high above above the hounds can I safely mount the tang for the hlyrd? Any used gear available? Thanks for the help! Dave
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Bill Roberts
- Expert
- Posts: 515
- Joined: November 17th, 2003, 9:13 pm
- Location: Stuart, Florida
SC20 Spin Set UP
Dave,
Go to the factory. Aquarius has everything you need. Also the self tacking jib is a nice "go fast improvement" and can be incorporated as part of the spin pole system. With the Pelican stricker tube, the jib tack can be set at deck level and this maximizes the jib luff length. The self tacking jib makes the crews job much easier and the boat faster while jibing downwind. Only Aquarius has a truely self tacking and self trimming "self tacking jib system". The other companies including the Tornado class thought they copied it, but they missed the boat, point.
The spinnaker halyard attachment point on the mast should be no higher than 1/3rd of the distance up between the hounds and the top of the mast. Everything from an ARC22 spin pole system will fit right onto your boat. The pole will require a slight shortening between the main beam and the jib tach because the forestay on the 20 is a few inches closer to the mast. The factory will make all adjustments necessary for the 22 kit to fit perfectly on your boat. Call Tom at 651-462 7245.
Bill
PS1 How about that; the factory can supply you with everything you need!
PS2 Long spinnaker poles are good. Long poles lift the bow. Short poles make the boat pitchpole.
Go to the factory. Aquarius has everything you need. Also the self tacking jib is a nice "go fast improvement" and can be incorporated as part of the spin pole system. With the Pelican stricker tube, the jib tack can be set at deck level and this maximizes the jib luff length. The self tacking jib makes the crews job much easier and the boat faster while jibing downwind. Only Aquarius has a truely self tacking and self trimming "self tacking jib system". The other companies including the Tornado class thought they copied it, but they missed the boat, point.
The spinnaker halyard attachment point on the mast should be no higher than 1/3rd of the distance up between the hounds and the top of the mast. Everything from an ARC22 spin pole system will fit right onto your boat. The pole will require a slight shortening between the main beam and the jib tach because the forestay on the 20 is a few inches closer to the mast. The factory will make all adjustments necessary for the 22 kit to fit perfectly on your boat. Call Tom at 651-462 7245.
Bill
PS1 How about that; the factory can supply you with everything you need!
PS2 Long spinnaker poles are good. Long poles lift the bow. Short poles make the boat pitchpole.
Pole Length and Asymmetrics
Bill and others
I agree the projection of the kite is paramount. Longer pole lengths should fall within the favorable limits of the hull's CLR, while maximising distance from the main's draft. This will allow offwind capability on deeper angles.
The sail cut with larger mid-girth dimensioning will have alot to do with the "bow lift", veryevident in small planing monohulls as the skiff. More postive luff dimensions allowing less drag inducing entries and flatter exits at the leech will facilitate hotter sailing angles. Projecting larger upper spinnaker areas will do more to lift those hulls than the tack's distance from the bow, for most situations. Obviously a one-design asymmetric will not be the panacea for all points of sail, but with the ideally displaced leeward hull, power further up off the waterline is most beneficial.
I'm not sure of the Sabre derived asymmetric profile, but if no weather helm is induced, than the numbers should be good ! Depending on the course, if pitching results the attack angle is probably too aggressive and vmg may be sacrificed. The Bethwaites of skiff fame, have concluded that the grey area of kites off the wind is more a function of overall sizing. They conclude that once to speed, size is secondary, that a smaller sail suffices as it ultimately produces less drag. Shape and projection become critical.
Our SC hulls are optimum, driven easily within limits. However ,when it comes to VMG, one might second guess the kite's use around the marks.
Dave Trey
I agree the projection of the kite is paramount. Longer pole lengths should fall within the favorable limits of the hull's CLR, while maximising distance from the main's draft. This will allow offwind capability on deeper angles.
The sail cut with larger mid-girth dimensioning will have alot to do with the "bow lift", veryevident in small planing monohulls as the skiff. More postive luff dimensions allowing less drag inducing entries and flatter exits at the leech will facilitate hotter sailing angles. Projecting larger upper spinnaker areas will do more to lift those hulls than the tack's distance from the bow, for most situations. Obviously a one-design asymmetric will not be the panacea for all points of sail, but with the ideally displaced leeward hull, power further up off the waterline is most beneficial.
I'm not sure of the Sabre derived asymmetric profile, but if no weather helm is induced, than the numbers should be good ! Depending on the course, if pitching results the attack angle is probably too aggressive and vmg may be sacrificed. The Bethwaites of skiff fame, have concluded that the grey area of kites off the wind is more a function of overall sizing. They conclude that once to speed, size is secondary, that a smaller sail suffices as it ultimately produces less drag. Shape and projection become critical.
Our SC hulls are optimum, driven easily within limits. However ,when it comes to VMG, one might second guess the kite's use around the marks.
Dave Trey