Is there a suggested place on the mast to install a tang for a spinnaker?? I mean, how far from the head or tang do you install the one for the spi? Granted, I think it would depend on the size of the chute, but I was wondering if there was a tested spot.
Also, I have seen Prindles and Nacras with holes drilled in the bows for the spi pole bridle. On my Prindle 18-2, I was told to come back from the tip of the bow about an inch and down from the deck an inch, then drill a big hole and fill it, then drill a smaller hole again to make it water tight. Is this the same method for the SC19, or should I use the bow tang for the main bridles?? In the pictures on this site, it looks like the 17 has holes drilled in the bows.
Thanks,
Dan
Installing Spinnaker or Hooter on SC19
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Bill Roberts
- Expert
- Posts: 515
- Joined: November 17th, 2003, 9:13 pm
- Location: Stuart, Florida
SC19 Spinnaker
Hi Dan,
I have tested the spinnaker at many elevations above the main mast hounds. From the go fast point of view, higher with a bigger spinnaker is better. But there is a problem. If you go past 33% of the mast height above the main hounds, the top of the mast begins to bend off too much and things become marginal from the structural point of view. I have tried 50% and put a permenant bend in an aluminum mast. Sailors in the I20 class have broken hundreds of masts and their spinnaker attachment point is just above half way up the mast above the hounds. This is too far/high!
Whisker wire attachment point: Replace the clevis pin that attaches the forestay bridle to the forestay chainplate with a bow shackle of the same
pin diameter. Use the bow of this shackle to attach the whisker wires from the end of the pole to the hull.
I know you may not believe this and if it were any other class it wouldn't be true, but if you want to put a spinnaker on a SC 19, call the factory and they will send you a complete kit. They will even help you get a spinnaker made to your choice of colors that fits the boat perfectly.
Bill.
I have tested the spinnaker at many elevations above the main mast hounds. From the go fast point of view, higher with a bigger spinnaker is better. But there is a problem. If you go past 33% of the mast height above the main hounds, the top of the mast begins to bend off too much and things become marginal from the structural point of view. I have tried 50% and put a permenant bend in an aluminum mast. Sailors in the I20 class have broken hundreds of masts and their spinnaker attachment point is just above half way up the mast above the hounds. This is too far/high!
Whisker wire attachment point: Replace the clevis pin that attaches the forestay bridle to the forestay chainplate with a bow shackle of the same
pin diameter. Use the bow of this shackle to attach the whisker wires from the end of the pole to the hull.
I know you may not believe this and if it were any other class it wouldn't be true, but if you want to put a spinnaker on a SC 19, call the factory and they will send you a complete kit. They will even help you get a spinnaker made to your choice of colors that fits the boat perfectly.
Bill.
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Tom Haberman
- Expert
- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 15th, 2003, 9:55 am
- Location: Minnesota
- Contact:
Dan,
The SUPERCATS have metal backup plates inside the hull laminate for all fasteners, so attaching the spinnaker pole whisker stay to the bow tangs, as Bill has explained is fine.
There are no holes drilled into the hull on any of the ARC models for whisker stay attachments. There is a stainless eye that is screwed into a metal backup plate on the ARC17, 21 & 22. This may be what you are refering to.
Mount the spinnaker hounds as Bill detailed and you may want to add a bail 12" below this hounds. The spinnaker halyard block can then be placed below this bail on a short tail and mast rotation will be much easier to control.
Tom
The SUPERCATS have metal backup plates inside the hull laminate for all fasteners, so attaching the spinnaker pole whisker stay to the bow tangs, as Bill has explained is fine.
There are no holes drilled into the hull on any of the ARC models for whisker stay attachments. There is a stainless eye that is screwed into a metal backup plate on the ARC17, 21 & 22. This may be what you are refering to.
Mount the spinnaker hounds as Bill detailed and you may want to add a bail 12" below this hounds. The spinnaker halyard block can then be placed below this bail on a short tail and mast rotation will be much easier to control.
Tom
Sincerely,
Tom Haberman
Tom Haberman
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Bill Roberts
- Expert
- Posts: 515
- Joined: November 17th, 2003, 9:13 pm
- Location: Stuart, Florida
Spinnaker or Gennaker on a SC 19
Dan,
One other point of advice: You will have much more success with a spinnaker than a gennaker. To make a gennaker work well, the luff should be kept very tight and straight as possible. A sagging luff makes the gennaker just pull sideways. Your SC 19 can only support the luff, luff tension, of the gennaker in up to 5 to 7mph winds. If this is what you sail in, then AOK. Note that going from 7mph to 10mph winds, the force of the wind doubles. Your overall sailing system does not have the stiffness to hold the gennaker luff thigh, straight, in a 10mph wind or greater. Don't even go there. You will just break things like the mast.
Bill
One other point of advice: You will have much more success with a spinnaker than a gennaker. To make a gennaker work well, the luff should be kept very tight and straight as possible. A sagging luff makes the gennaker just pull sideways. Your SC 19 can only support the luff, luff tension, of the gennaker in up to 5 to 7mph winds. If this is what you sail in, then AOK. Note that going from 7mph to 10mph winds, the force of the wind doubles. Your overall sailing system does not have the stiffness to hold the gennaker luff thigh, straight, in a 10mph wind or greater. Don't even go there. You will just break things like the mast.
Bill
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DanBerger
- Professional
- Posts: 280
- Joined: May 3rd, 2004, 3:29 pm
- Boat Make/Model: SC 15 w/ spin!, SC 19
- Location: Norfolk, VA
Busted!
Bill, you got me--I was planning on installing a Hooter, but I also wanted to be able to run a spinnaker in the future (when I get one). I had my 18-2 set up so that I could run either sail, but never got around to using them!
I absolutely agree on using a head sail upwind. I have one on my Hobie 14 and I have trouble keeping luff tension. I had to go to an improvised 2:1 on the halyard to keep it tight. It is a rocket in light wind, but it basically wants to go over backwards in anything slightly heavy. In the few times I have had it out in heavier wind, I just furled it upwind and used it down wind. That would be my intention with installing the Hooter on the SC19.
Thanks for the info everyone!!
I absolutely agree on using a head sail upwind. I have one on my Hobie 14 and I have trouble keeping luff tension. I had to go to an improvised 2:1 on the halyard to keep it tight. It is a rocket in light wind, but it basically wants to go over backwards in anything slightly heavy. In the few times I have had it out in heavier wind, I just furled it upwind and used it down wind. That would be my intention with installing the Hooter on the SC19.
Thanks for the info everyone!!
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DanBerger
- Professional
- Posts: 280
- Joined: May 3rd, 2004, 3:29 pm
- Boat Make/Model: SC 15 w/ spin!, SC 19
- Location: Norfolk, VA
Spin pole attachment
One more question--
I installed a spin/hooter pole on my Hobie 14 by drilling through the front beam and running a long carriage bolt through. I tightened it with a nylock nut and then put a big washer on the rod. I drilled a hole in the bast of the spin pole and I can now just slide it over the part of the carriage bolt that is sticking out front. The big washer spreads the load as the base pushes against the nut. Pretty convenient, but it makes me nervous doing the same on the SC19 since there is no dolphin striker.
What is the preferred way to mount the pole? Would the carriage bolt approach weaken the beam since I would be drilling two holes in it??
My other idea was to take a gooseneck from a Hobie 18 and install it under the mast base. It has 6 rivets and might be just as convenient by using a pin to connect.
Thanks in advance!
I installed a spin/hooter pole on my Hobie 14 by drilling through the front beam and running a long carriage bolt through. I tightened it with a nylock nut and then put a big washer on the rod. I drilled a hole in the bast of the spin pole and I can now just slide it over the part of the carriage bolt that is sticking out front. The big washer spreads the load as the base pushes against the nut. Pretty convenient, but it makes me nervous doing the same on the SC19 since there is no dolphin striker.
What is the preferred way to mount the pole? Would the carriage bolt approach weaken the beam since I would be drilling two holes in it??
My other idea was to take a gooseneck from a Hobie 18 and install it under the mast base. It has 6 rivets and might be just as convenient by using a pin to connect.
Thanks in advance!
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davefarmer
- Hot Shot
- Posts: 36
- Joined: March 31st, 2004, 8:24 pm
- Location: Spokane, WA
Hooter for SC 19
Dan,
I'm running a Hooter on my SC 20, works fine upwind in light air, and downwind as it picks up. I too use a 2 to 1 downhaul for luff tension. Snapped a few windsurfing masts til I got the pole dialed in. My whisker stays go back to jib bridle as per Bill and Thom, and I have a double dolphin striker below the pole. Can describe pole attachment to the main crossbeam if you need ( mine is hose clamped to the telescoping beam to avoid drilling). My halyard is attached with a boom bail one third the distance between the hounds and masthead, above the hounds. Mast seems to take it fine. Dave Farmer 509 276 6355
I'm running a Hooter on my SC 20, works fine upwind in light air, and downwind as it picks up. I too use a 2 to 1 downhaul for luff tension. Snapped a few windsurfing masts til I got the pole dialed in. My whisker stays go back to jib bridle as per Bill and Thom, and I have a double dolphin striker below the pole. Can describe pole attachment to the main crossbeam if you need ( mine is hose clamped to the telescoping beam to avoid drilling). My halyard is attached with a boom bail one third the distance between the hounds and masthead, above the hounds. Mast seems to take it fine. Dave Farmer 509 276 6355
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DanBerger
- Professional
- Posts: 280
- Joined: May 3rd, 2004, 3:29 pm
- Boat Make/Model: SC 15 w/ spin!, SC 19
- Location: Norfolk, VA
Thanks, Dave.
I still have the boat upside down in the back yard so I can finish the bottom job. I thought I would have it done by Labor day, but it has come and gone.
Where did you get the dolphin striker, or did you build it? Any pictures? I have a Hooter rig on a H14 and don't need a ds, but I think I should get one for the 19 footer. I have a long two-piece pole that I was planning on using. The Hooter came off of a Nacra 6.0NA, so it is HUGE.
Also, how long is your spin pole??
I still have the boat upside down in the back yard so I can finish the bottom job. I thought I would have it done by Labor day, but it has come and gone.
Where did you get the dolphin striker, or did you build it? Any pictures? I have a Hooter rig on a H14 and don't need a ds, but I think I should get one for the 19 footer. I have a long two-piece pole that I was planning on using. The Hooter came off of a Nacra 6.0NA, so it is HUGE.
Also, how long is your spin pole??
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davefarmer
- Hot Shot
- Posts: 36
- Joined: March 31st, 2004, 8:24 pm
- Location: Spokane, WA
Hooter spin pole set up
Dan.
My pole is 14', longer than I'd prefer, mostly dictated by the Hooter luff of 28', dolphin striker was fabricated out of aluminum, fairly simple design, seems effective. I'l try to get a picture. Feel free to call. Dave
My pole is 14', longer than I'd prefer, mostly dictated by the Hooter luff of 28', dolphin striker was fabricated out of aluminum, fairly simple design, seems effective. I'l try to get a picture. Feel free to call. Dave