Rudder sticking
Rudder sticking
Hi I appreciate the expertise here with previous question on my new Supercat 19. THe first few times I lowered and raised the rudders beach launching they worked fine. Now it seems I'm having some trouble getting the rudders to raise and lower- I pull on the release line and the stop doesn't quite clear the rudder. Can you tell me how to cure this? The boat hasn't been in the water for a couple years before this one. Any pointers on keeping them working well? Thanks in advance
-
Tom Haberman
- Expert
- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 15th, 2003, 9:55 am
- Location: Minnesota
- Contact:
I think a little maintanance is in order.
I would probably start by removing the two springs . Remove the first nut and pull the spring off the rudder roller pin.
With the springs removed the rudder roller pin can be removed by removing the second nut and washer that is against the casting.
Make sure the two rollers are removed also.
The next step is to remove the rudder pivot bolt.
Clean up the sides of the rudders ( sand with 120 grit or a Scotch Brite pad.) This should give you a noice smooth and clean surface on both sides of the rudder that are in contact with the casting. This would also be a good time to repair any nicks or dings in the rudder.
After the rudders are complete you should do the same process with the castings , clean and remove any old lubricants that may have acuumulated on the roller pin slot. This is probably the biggest source of sticking rudders. Really clean the inside of the castings and make sure they are smooth, especially where they contact the rudder.
Clean the remainging components,
Rudder rollers, cross pin, washers, nuts and pivot bolt.
After all the above steps are complete you can start to reassemble the rudders into the castings.
When you tighten the pivot bolt nut make sure the rudder will swing from full up to down without forcing it. On the ARC , RC boats we have a thin shim of Nylatron bonded to the insides of each casting. On older SUPERCAT casting there may not be enough room for a Nylatron shim but a very thin shim of Mylar may be used. The mylar will work just as well but will not last as long.
Inspect the rudder roller cross pin. It should be relatively straight and not worn in the center where the small block is located.
The older models used a white or cream colored pin which did distort under spring load. In 1985 a clear pin was used , this material was much stiffer but was susceptible to crazing from lubricants.
THe newest material is black and is stiff and tough.
Assemble the rudder cross pin with a roller on each side of the block.
center the pin and tighen the nuts just enough so the complete roller pin assembly can be moved vertically without binding or drag.
After the roller pin assembly has been adjusted the springs can be placed onto the ends of the rudder roller cross pin. Be sure that when you tighten these last two nuts that you do not disturb the adjustment on the rudder roller pin assembly.
The last step is to lubricate the slots in the castings. DO NOT USE any sort of spray lubricants. The propellant used in almost all sprays will damage the cross pin. A good lubricant is a wheel bearing grease , it will be resistant to water and should last a reasonably long time. Don't over do the grease, use just enough to coat the slots, there is no need to put grease on the rollers themselves.
The proper operation of both up and down function works well to manually raise a rudder as well as return it to the normal down sailing position. The rudder will kick up in the event you encounter an underwater obstruction or shallow water.
It is not necessary to keep pulling on the up rope when raising the rudder. Just a quick tug will release the rollers from the rudder cam and the rudder will swing into the up locked position. If you continue to pull on the rope it will stop the rudder just short of the upper position.
To return the rudder to the normal down sailing position you must pull on the up rope and then pull on the down rope at the same time. You must keep some tension on the up rope to keep the rollers in the up position until you have pulled the rudder just past the can cut-out on the rudder.
A little practice will get you accustomed to the correct action and after awhile it will become second nature to you.
Keeping the rudder blade and casting clean will go a long ways towards keeping the entire assembly working smoothly.
The cross pin also serves as a shear pin in the event the rudders are in the locked up position and the bows are raised so high that the rudders are forced to carry the entire weight of the boat, the pin will shear and prevent damage to the transoms. This can occur when trying to onload a boat from a trailer directly onto the beach or grass.
UNDER NO circumstance should any type of metal be used for a rudder roller cross pin. Corrosion will undoubtably occur and severe binding will prevent the rudder from kicking up when required. Severe damage to rudder blade or hull is likely to occur. Keep a few spare pins in your tool kit and you will be ready to go in the event that a pin is sheared.
A little regular maintanance will keep the rudders operating smoothly in all normal sailing conditions.
Good sailing.
I would probably start by removing the two springs . Remove the first nut and pull the spring off the rudder roller pin.
With the springs removed the rudder roller pin can be removed by removing the second nut and washer that is against the casting.
Make sure the two rollers are removed also.
The next step is to remove the rudder pivot bolt.
Clean up the sides of the rudders ( sand with 120 grit or a Scotch Brite pad.) This should give you a noice smooth and clean surface on both sides of the rudder that are in contact with the casting. This would also be a good time to repair any nicks or dings in the rudder.
After the rudders are complete you should do the same process with the castings , clean and remove any old lubricants that may have acuumulated on the roller pin slot. This is probably the biggest source of sticking rudders. Really clean the inside of the castings and make sure they are smooth, especially where they contact the rudder.
Clean the remainging components,
Rudder rollers, cross pin, washers, nuts and pivot bolt.
After all the above steps are complete you can start to reassemble the rudders into the castings.
When you tighten the pivot bolt nut make sure the rudder will swing from full up to down without forcing it. On the ARC , RC boats we have a thin shim of Nylatron bonded to the insides of each casting. On older SUPERCAT casting there may not be enough room for a Nylatron shim but a very thin shim of Mylar may be used. The mylar will work just as well but will not last as long.
Inspect the rudder roller cross pin. It should be relatively straight and not worn in the center where the small block is located.
The older models used a white or cream colored pin which did distort under spring load. In 1985 a clear pin was used , this material was much stiffer but was susceptible to crazing from lubricants.
THe newest material is black and is stiff and tough.
Assemble the rudder cross pin with a roller on each side of the block.
center the pin and tighen the nuts just enough so the complete roller pin assembly can be moved vertically without binding or drag.
After the roller pin assembly has been adjusted the springs can be placed onto the ends of the rudder roller cross pin. Be sure that when you tighten these last two nuts that you do not disturb the adjustment on the rudder roller pin assembly.
The last step is to lubricate the slots in the castings. DO NOT USE any sort of spray lubricants. The propellant used in almost all sprays will damage the cross pin. A good lubricant is a wheel bearing grease , it will be resistant to water and should last a reasonably long time. Don't over do the grease, use just enough to coat the slots, there is no need to put grease on the rollers themselves.
The proper operation of both up and down function works well to manually raise a rudder as well as return it to the normal down sailing position. The rudder will kick up in the event you encounter an underwater obstruction or shallow water.
It is not necessary to keep pulling on the up rope when raising the rudder. Just a quick tug will release the rollers from the rudder cam and the rudder will swing into the up locked position. If you continue to pull on the rope it will stop the rudder just short of the upper position.
To return the rudder to the normal down sailing position you must pull on the up rope and then pull on the down rope at the same time. You must keep some tension on the up rope to keep the rollers in the up position until you have pulled the rudder just past the can cut-out on the rudder.
A little practice will get you accustomed to the correct action and after awhile it will become second nature to you.
Keeping the rudder blade and casting clean will go a long ways towards keeping the entire assembly working smoothly.
The cross pin also serves as a shear pin in the event the rudders are in the locked up position and the bows are raised so high that the rudders are forced to carry the entire weight of the boat, the pin will shear and prevent damage to the transoms. This can occur when trying to onload a boat from a trailer directly onto the beach or grass.
UNDER NO circumstance should any type of metal be used for a rudder roller cross pin. Corrosion will undoubtably occur and severe binding will prevent the rudder from kicking up when required. Severe damage to rudder blade or hull is likely to occur. Keep a few spare pins in your tool kit and you will be ready to go in the event that a pin is sheared.
A little regular maintanance will keep the rudders operating smoothly in all normal sailing conditions.
Good sailing.
Sincerely,
Tom Haberman
Tom Haberman
-
DanBerger
- Professional
- Posts: 280
- Joined: May 3rd, 2004, 3:29 pm
- Boat Make/Model: SC 15 w/ spin!, SC 19
- Location: Norfolk, VA
Tom,
I guess I need to order some new pin kits from you--I replaced mine with Stainless bolts and replaced the rudder pins (into the gudgeons) with 1/2" cotter pins!!
I heard that the SC rudder castings started to bind or get tight over time. I have 2 sets and one is tight, while the other is loose. I did what you suggested by sanding the blade and I even sanded the inside of the casting, but it is still very tight. I like the fact that it won't have a lot of slop, but it just doesn't work smoothly. Someone told me that Home Depot has sheets of Teflon that are very thin and you can use them as a big washer (of sorts) between the blade and the casting. Any experience with this??
I guess I need to order some new pin kits from you--I replaced mine with Stainless bolts and replaced the rudder pins (into the gudgeons) with 1/2" cotter pins!!
I heard that the SC rudder castings started to bind or get tight over time. I have 2 sets and one is tight, while the other is loose. I did what you suggested by sanding the blade and I even sanded the inside of the casting, but it is still very tight. I like the fact that it won't have a lot of slop, but it just doesn't work smoothly. Someone told me that Home Depot has sheets of Teflon that are very thin and you can use them as a big washer (of sorts) between the blade and the casting. Any experience with this??
-
Tom Haberman
- Expert
- Posts: 48
- Joined: November 15th, 2003, 9:55 am
- Location: Minnesota
- Contact:
Dan,
The teflon washer sounds like a good idea, should be very slippery but it cannot be bonded with any adhesive that I am aware of.
The material we use is not available thinner than .03125" and it would probably be too thick if your casting is tight already.
I do have a trick taht may help you get a bit more space in the casting.
I would prefer if you would call me direct and we can discuss the process.
The teflon washer sounds like a good idea, should be very slippery but it cannot be bonded with any adhesive that I am aware of.
The material we use is not available thinner than .03125" and it would probably be too thick if your casting is tight already.
I do have a trick taht may help you get a bit more space in the casting.
I would prefer if you would call me direct and we can discuss the process.
Sincerely,
Tom Haberman
Tom Haberman
rudder sticking
Thanks for the detailed reply and discussion- since my boat is parked 100 miles away would you have a diagram I could view to get an idea before I go to work on it Friday?