Aquarius Sail Owners

My new to me 20 has the x bar connections that are the U brackets attached to each other, they are quite sloppy. Anyone have a better way?

That was 1976 hardware. The answer to any problems you have with the boat is aalways the same............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... Call the factory!!!!! They have the solutions!!!!!

I have the same hardware. It's a Ronstan or equivalent swivel It's sloppy as hell. The issue seems to be the plug that the rudder lines pass through. All the crossbar connections I see bolt vertically through the tillers. I suppose I could pull that plug and rotate it 90 deg and then drill for a vertical bolt. There is not much room in the tiller plug for a through bolt. I might just eliminate the plug. Perhaps an end cap in front of the through bolt would feed the rudder lines. The addition of some saddles at the joint would help clean up the slop. This looks like an off season project. The rudders need ding repair anyway and they slop about a bit in the castings. I might look into Dan's flexible cutting mat fix for that.
I know Tom has new crossbars ready to ship, but I do like to work this stuff out on my own.

If I understand you correctly by turning the plug 90 degrees the bolt will go through the holes that the up/down lines go through. I made a new plug for mine but I would bet that Tom could supply new ones.

I did exactly that--I bought new plugs from Tom, turned them 90 degrees and installed a yolk (like the tiller extension connector yolk) on top of the tillers. You have to be very careful when drilling through the plugs to keep them centered. Also, I suggest using a bolt that is not threaded all the way so your rudder control lines don't chafe on it.

That really tightened up my system!

Sounds like the ticket. I was figuring on a 1/4-20 bolt with a shank. Do you have a pic of your crossbar connection? How did the flexible cutting board shim work out? My starboard rudder has a lot of play in it.

I'll get a pic soon..

The flexible cutting board shim worked out REALLY well...for about a season. I used an orbital palm sander to rough up the gel coat on the blade, and I roughed up the surface on the shim. I then glued the shim to the blade with model cement--something like "CA", like superglue. That held it really well for a little while. The first board I used was thinner and the rudder pivoted really easily. I had a VERY tight system.

Then the glue started to let loose and sand got inbetween. even with one little grain of sand, I couldn't move the rudders.

I used the Aquarius shims that are like the shape of the casting and the same thing happened. Sand. Bad stuff.

Thus year, I just took the shims out and the rudders are working very well. They aren't as tight as before, but I can get them up and down.

If they only had a piece of plastic that had an adhesive backing...

Here ya go:

That's what I have on my SC20.

Yes, I know this is an old thread. I am resurrecting this topic. I have expended time and material to thicken up the head of my starboard rudder. I added six layers of glass and resin to each side. Prodigious sanding was involved. I also sanded and polished the inside of the casting. This eliminated a lot of play between the casting and the blade. This still leaves a bearing surface of cast aluminum and gel coat.

Has anybody tried this?
http://www.amazon.com/Teflon-industrial ... tfe+sheets

How about West System and aluminum powder?

Until all the hardware arrives and I have time to fix the swivel connections I have done a field fix. I jammed a wad of that Tootsie Roll epoxy under the swivel on the rudder arm. This took all the for and aft slop out of that connection. I wound a length of waxed whipping twine into the swivel joint and then turned some stainless seizing wire around it. Firmed it right up. I know it's bootleg, but it works.
I tried this out on Saturday, it works great! The only slop left is in the extension to crossbar connection. A couple of washers should work that out.

There is slop between the pintles and guedgions also. Has anyone tried sleeving the guedgions?
Factual,specific replies would be most welcome. GH

When it comes to the sloppy pintles, I have thought about boring out the gudgeons to a slightly larger size and use a larger plastic rod for a pintle. I have a mill and lathe so I have considered it but mine are not yet loose enough for me to really worry about it.

I looked at this, I would hate to loose any metal on the gudgeons The slop is about .012". It's like one neat wrap of electrical tape on the pins.

I think there is enough room to bore it out. I don't think you would compromise the strength of it. I assume you use the plastic pins? You can always turn slightly larger pins.

I imagine I would have to find the next size plastic rod up from 1/2" and reduce it. I am using Aquarius plastic pins. Now I have to go out and buy a lathe, dang!

Give me the material and the size and I can turn it for you.